I had just finished my first year of law school, and I was ready to celebrate with a pitcher of booze and some comfort food. “Let’s go to Thai Diner,” I told my friend.
I hadn’t yet been, but I had been to Uncle Boons, the previous restaurant helmed by Thai Diner owners Ann Redding and Matt Danzer. Uncle Boons was one of many beloved joints that couldn’t survive the pandemic.
Since Uncle Boons was no longer an option, off we went to Thai Diner, which opened in 2020, to see if it upheld the same standard. The menu is expansive, but the first thing that caught my eye were the Thai disco fries. I’m a sucker for a saucy potato, especially in fry form, so we immediately ordered that, along with a pitcher of spicy tamarind margaritas made with Thai bird chili. And because we aren’t total hedonists, we threw in a Baan salad, which features a romaine base topped with crispy red curry rice, watercress, avocado, Thai herbs and sweet chili dressing.
Salad, fries and spicy margs were certainly the antidote my body was craving after a stressful first year of law school. When the bowl of Thai disco fries arrived, I knew I was in for a treat. Crinkle-cut fries are completely smothered in a Massaman curry sauce, mixed with pickled green peppercorns, red onion, peanuts and coconut cream and topped with thinly sliced scallions.
The result is a spicy Thai-American fusion dish — a genius one at that. Despite having so much going on, it all comes together cohesively and electrifies the senses. The pops of green pickled peppercorns add acidity and zing, while the crunch of the peanuts helps break up the sauce. If you order this dish, which, you have my full endorsement to do so, just make sure to dig toward the bottom of the bowl to get all of that saucy goodness.
Between bites of curry-ladled fries and sips of spicy tamarind margs, the Baan salad came out, and one bite in confirmed that Thai Diner has textural dishes nailed. The crispy rice throughout forever changed the way I eat salads, and in the months following my first visit to Thai Diner, I found myself at home crisping up leftover, heavily seasoned white rice in an attempt to re-create the Baan salad. Spoiler alert: They do it much better than I do.
That first visit in 2022 made me a loyal fan of Thai Diner, and anytime I find myself in this neck of Manhattan, I make time to swing by to get some Thai disco fries and a Thai iced tea. Recently, on a particularly chilly day, I made my way back. With the frigid temperatures starting to make me sniffle, I ordered some aromatic kuaytiew ped, or duck noodle soup, to go with my fries.
While Thai diner’s spins on disco fries, breakfast sandwiches and cheesesteaks are somewhat kitschy Thai spins on American comfort foods, dishes like the kuaytiew ped show that the roots of this place are not only chef-driven, but a true testament to Thailand.
Made with tender duck swimming alongside brown rice noodles in a broth with soy, star anise, cinnamon and purple basil, the kuaytiew ped feels like a warm hug in a bowl. It feels personal, like someone in the kitchen knew I had a stuffy nose and that my allergies were flaring up, and they said, “Here, I made you some soup.” The brown rice noodles are extra chewy, and the duck is so tender that it shredded with a spoon.
Thai Diner carries on some of the dishes from Uncle Boons, including their khao pat puu (crab fried rice) and famous coconut sundae. They offer Thai classics like khao soi, a northern Thai turmeric and chicken leg curry noodle dish (another one of my go-to comfort dishes on a cold day). They also serve fun breakfast options like their Thai tea babka French toast.
If your experience is anything like mine, it won’t matter what you order at Thai Diner; you’re in for a memorable, fragrant meal regardless. But whatever you do, make sure you start your meal off with those Thai disco fries.
Address: 186 Mott St., New York, NY, 10012
Phone: (646) 559-4140
Hours: Sunday 10 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Monday-Wednesday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Thursday and Friday 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m-11:30 p.m.
Prices: Breakfast $14-$26; snacks $13-$17; soup & sandwich $10-$21; salads $15; Thai classics $21-$29; from our woks $20-$26; house specialties $26-$29; sides $2-$9; raw bar $16-$185; desserts $5-$10
Takeout and delivery available; limited reservations (primarily walk-ins).
Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to Kaitlyn with your recommendations at nomannomad.net@gmail.com.
